Janvier: les cinq premiers

It is hard to keep up with all the reasons why I adore Paris. In an effort to put them into words/images, here is January's top five list of the things that make me happy in Paris.

1. Handwritten notes.

I have received more handwritten notes in the one month that I have lived here than I receive in one year back in the states.

My first handwritten note was taped to the front door of my apartment by my crabby-ass, crazy neighbor.  I, of course, handwrote my rebuttle (with some localization help by my French friend who is a stickler for French nuances).  A couple of weeks later, I received another handwritten note in my mailbox. This one is from an anonymous source instructing me that I must have a couple of professional plaques made for the intercom and mailbox as the inkjet printed version that I have inserted into the slot will no doubt give all the other tenants license to junk up all of the common spaces (uh, okay).

Just when I began to think that I was being singled out and was beginning to take it personally, a friend gave me some great insight... "Just because you are getting handwritten notes, don't think that you are special or that it is personal. It isn't that way in France. In the US, you write a note when you want someone to know how meaningful and special they are. In France you handwrite a note because you refuse to accept and don't know how to use any other forms of nouvelle communication, like a phone, email, etc."

Sometimes, it feels really nice to know that it's them, not me.

2. Baies candles and the Diptyque mothership right down the street.

Diptyque's flagship boutique on St. Germain

Anyone who has ever been to my house in the states knows that I love Diptyque's Baies candles. I suppose you could say that it is my home's signature scent. So, when I realized that Diptyque's original flagship store was a 4 minute walk from my apartment in Paris, I couldn't get there fast enough.

My knowledge of Diptyque (thanks to my friend Trey) seemed to impress Jean-Luc at Diptyque. And while I intended only to stock up on a couple of Baies (and perhaps an eau de toilette for good measure), what I came home with was another story. Jean-Luc stock piled my bag with every scent that he thought would be sympathique with my taste. Plus, a book about Diptyque and the formulas for their scents to further my Diptyque education.

In addition to an apartment that smells like home, I have a couple of brand new scents that are awakening my senses.

3. Octopus by Philippe Decouflé

My darling girlfriend had a recent Friday night free (her parents would watch her 3 year-old over night). Her desire was that we somehow secure tickets to a sold out (and highly sought after) dance performance of Octopus that was choreographed and directed by Philippe Decouflé at Théâtre National de Chaillot. I assumed that this task was impossible. Alas, proving once again that she has magical powers for manifesting ANYTHING she wants, we miraculously had two tickets for the Friday night performance. Not just ANY two tickets; we would be sitting in the front row, center stage for the performance.

Théâtre National de Chaillot

I experienced a dance and musical treat unlike anything I have ever seen before. The dancing, the costumes, the artistic back drop, the live music and the subject matter was beyond my wildest dreams. If I were to try and explain the theme, I would say that it was one of love and beauty; of contrasts and opposites. With co-dependency, jealousy and independence as some of its sub-themes. Here is a small glimpse. 

 Oh, and the live music that I mentioned could have been a show unto itself. Nosfell performed live on stage with a partner who periodically chimed in on the cello, piano, and drums... like ya do.

4. Half a baguette.

I have been getting very concerned about my carbohydrate intake and its aftermath. Much like it is for every other Parisian, it has become part of my routine to pick up a baguette at some point almost everyday. God forbid I be without one when searching for a conduit for my cheese, avocado, nutella, etc. Yet having a baguette in my apartment means that I inevitably end up eating the whole freaking thing. So I was delighted to learn that you can ask/pay for half a baguette. "C'est normale." Whew!


5. Paol's Tour of the Basquiat Exhibition.

Paris is hosting the largest Jean Michael Basquiat Exhibition until January 30th at the Musée de' Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris (MaM). Usually when I go to the museum, I go by myself equipped with some form of soundtrack... like music or an audio track to explain the work in more detail.

This time was different.

I was given a guided tour by Paol, who works at the Musee de' Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris. Paol is a friend of my Parisian friend, so he gave us the tour entirely in French. I chose to go it without a parachute (i.e. no English translation pamphlet as back up) and therefore, found myself paying rapt attention. Here are five things I learned about Basquiat:

- He had a long-term girlfriend, Suzanne Mallouk, who is now a Phychiatrist.

- In the early 80's he cheated on her with pre-fame Madonna.

- Suzanne beat up Madonna as a result, at The Roxy.

- Basquait paid tribute to the scuffle in a couple of his paintings. (like this one below with an image of Suzanne wearing big shoes, and several punching fist references)

- His art career was short, from age 20 until he died at 27. In that time he created over 1,000 paintings and 2,000 sketches.

- He was obsessed with Charlie Parker.

And while his painting were A.M.A.Z.I.N.G, they also came infused with little bits of inspirational wisdom.

Good luck Février, you've got some big shoes to fill.